

What is known as a menu operai - a hearty set lunch for workers - is served in many trattorie at midday, and a full meal will set you back only about €10. Some of the best deals are available at lunchtime - but never in restaurants displaying the dreaded menu turistico sign. All these restaurants should be booked at least a week in advance. Paolo and Laura Lazzari, the brother and sister team who run the intimate Vini da Gigio (Fondamenta San Felice, Cannaregio 3628/A 0), also have a faithful local clientele who come for the city's finest wine list and seasonal specials such as wild duck from the lagoon or deep-fried soft-shell crabs, known as moeche. Alternatively, Da Remigio (Ponte dei Greci, Castello 3416 0) is a firm favourite, offering delicious dishes like spaghetti cooked with a delicate spider crab sauce or succulent grilled razor clams.

There is no better place to taste the finest traditional cuisine of Venice. She is always around, ready to offer advice to guests on sightseeing, concerts or just to talk passionately about her beloved palazzoįor the once-a-year celebratory dinner, Venetians will invariably reserve at Osteria Da Fiore (Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2208). Although this is more of a formal hotel than a B&B, the palace is the home of the charming owner, Maria Luisa Rossi, who creates the feeling that you're staying with her as a friend of the family rather than a paying guest. (Via Galuppi 95 double €85).Ĭalle Priuli, Cannaregio 4011, (041 2413784 doubles from €200įor an unforgettable stay, try the romantic Palazzo Abadessa, a fabulous 16th-century palace recently converted into an exclusive private residence. Alternatively, you can experience the bustling daily life of a typical trattoria on colourful Burano by renting one of the basic rooms above the Raspo de Ua Included in the price is the use of a tiny boat - necessary for crossing to Mazzorbo island, where the vaporetto stop is. This beautifully renovated two-bedroom fisherman's cottage is available for self-catering holidays. There are regular vaporetto links with the city, so sightseeing is just as easy. Staying on an island in the lagoon offers a different view of La Serenissima. Mazzorbetto, (mobile: 3498367608, €200 a night, minimum three nights Guests can wander through the hotel gardens and visit the ateliers and furnaces there are regular courses in making mosaics. Now Lucio Orsoni has transformed part of his workshops into a stylish hotel, decorated, naturally enough, with breathtaking mosaics. While glass-makers were banished to the island of Murano centuries ago because of the fire risk to Venice, the mosaic furnaces of the Orsoni family were allowed to stay. She has great tips on where to eat, too.Ĭalle dei Vedei, Cannaregio 1045, (041 2759538 doubles from €100 In the evening, she opens a bottle of Prosecco sparkling wine on her altana, a traditional Venetian wooden terrace on the roof, with spectacular views over the city.

Guests are invited to a sumptuous breakfast in her tasteful living room, furnished with comfortable sofas, paintings and antiques. Bear in mind, though, that this is Italy, and the majority of these places are not 'officially declared', so you'll have to surf the web to see what is on offer.Ĭorte Trapolin, Cannaregio 2452, (041 720957 doubles from €85Īlessandra Soldi - 'Sandra' as she asks guests to call her - lives on the top two floors of a 17th-century house, and her elegant home is the jewel of Venice's B&Bs. Not only are prices cheaper than conventional hotels, but staying with a Venetian family gives you an insider's feel for the city, while renting an apartment gives the impression of living like a local. In a city renowned for pricey hotels, the recent boom in bed-and-breakfast accommodation and private apartments for rent is good news for the visitor.
